When building I took measurements from the plan as to the location of the undercarriage, and placed them at the thickest part of the wing. This in hindsight was too close to the CG, and the model keeps tipping up. So after a years flying I got so fed up with it, I have ripped the retracts out and installed fixed undercarraige 30mm further forward.
19. In the air
First flights were done with the cowl off to make palying with the engine simpler, I needn't have worried. Has to be the best model I've flown (To date).
YS 110 with an Hatori 4s pipe, you can hardly hear it in the air. If you open the full size image you can see the M3 inserts uses to fix in place. The other shows the radio & retract installation. I've used an electronic air valve, the small heat srunk item to the right of the Rx is a hall effect switch, lets me turn the model on / off with a small magnet from the outside. http://www.t9hobbysport.com/hall-magnetic-switch.
17. Cracking on
Model is painted with rattle cans from a car paint show. The guy is able to match the paint to the film. Wings are Profilm white with solarfilm trim, and the checked underside is Hobby King covering which is suprisingly good.
Canopy is held in place with M3 screw inserts, as is the cowl. I have given up on gluing canopies these days.
The canopy shows the voltage of the Rx pack and a small pressure gauge for the retracts.
17. Cracking on
Cracking on now but not many photos. Fuslelage complete / glassed and primed.
16. Wing fitting
One of the problems I faced was with the belly pan, so I've decided not to use it, but make my own tank bottom and wing fairing. The front section is removable to allow access to the tank area.
15. Elevator pushrod
Elevator pushrod development, much easier to fit at this stage.
14. Initial Tailplane setting
Tailplane trial fit. Jigged the fuselage to 0 degrees and looking for the same on the tailplane, 0.1 degrees is good enough for now, I will make final adjustements when the time comes to fit it properly, all I need to know is its not far out because by the time I fit it propperly the fuselage will be covered.
13. Wing fitting
A couple of work in progess shots, the wing seat doubler and the fin assembly.
12. Wing fitting
I use Robart hinge point nearly everywhere these days, and to help with fixing I add an anchor behind the trailing edge facing to double up the thickness.
Ailerrons marked and cut out, I cut out to plan, then trim to add facings, I use a balsa stripper here set to the facing thickness (1/4").
10. Wing fitting
Nows the time to check the wing incidence when I can still do someting about it +0.3 degrees is spot on.
8. Wing fitting.
Simplest solution I think was to plug the existing holes with dowel, and add 1/8 (real) Ply and re drill in the correct position. ALso now gives me a 1/4" F2 for the wing dowel.
9. Wing fitting
Slight problem here, the wing pegs don't line up with the wings, when the wings are the wing seat. As the fuselage was pre built I assume its right.
7. Wing Glassing.
Tail and mainwings centre glassing. Also extended around the retract wells.
6. Retract fitting.
Retract unit in place to hold everything straight, and any glue seepage as it expands is removed, wheel wells marked out and created.
5. Wing build
Rhomair retracts - made a mount similar to the Curare, cut the foam to suit. Glued in with Gorilla glue.
Tailpalne done in the same way as the main wing, and the tips added.
3. Wing build
Servo holes measured and cut out and lined.
2. Wing build
Main wings joined in the usual way with the tips parallel to the building board, even after 20 years there is no discernible error in the wings.